Peru: Cusco. Entering the "New World"

"...Allá donde voy, el extranjero me llaman...." (El Extranjero, by Bunbury)

One of the great wonders of travelling is being able to overcome the fear of the unknown. Depending on the destination, this moment can come at an earlier or later stage. In the very same moment I am writing this words, my second day (or first complete day) in Cusco, and while I peacefuly enjoy the brown sugar melting slowly in my capuccino (I hope Proust doesn´t bother that I use the image of his cake on the coffee), I definitely feel that I have lost that fear of the unkown in this land. But let´s start from the beginning...

The trip from Madrid to Cusco was somehow a tough one. Having to go through two connections (Sao Paolo and Lima) and several hours of wait at the different airports, I was expecting the worst. I must say that delays causing me to miss a plane and lost baggage were mainly the things I didn´t really want to experience. However, the trip as such wasn´t that bad and, despite the fact that the movies and entertainment services on the planes were not working, babies crying in front seats and unexpectedly having to pick up my bag and check in again for the last part of the itinerary (the domestic flight between Lima and Cusco), I enjoyed it pretty much.

The approach to Cusco airport amongst the mountains was a slightly scary one. It is usually not a good sign when the plane gets badly shaken by strong winds while approaching an airport with a rather short runway, but it´s even worse when the young Peruvian guy on the seat next row pulls out of his shirt, and hanging from his neck, a crucifix and grabs it like the end is coming. Luckily, it was just the end of my flights as we landed safely and my real adventure was just about to being. One of these days I should promise Lana not to watch any more "Aircrash Investigation" series or the movie "Alive". Anyway, as far as I´ve heard it´s probably more dangerous to drive in these countries than flying considering the poor state of the roads.

From the moment I landed in Cusco, the shock was unavoidable. The view is really dramatic, surrounded by vast mountains all around. Driving through some slums of this once capital of the Inca Empire, it felt like I had come to another planet. The locals must have thought too that I was coming from another planet, as they all kept insisting in speaking English to me despite my constant responses in perfect Spanish. Well, what can I do? I am just another gringo here.

Cultural (and looks!) differences aside, Cusco really looks like nothing I´ve seen before narrow streets,  wild and chaotic traffic (allow 5 minutes to cross a busy road by foot), lots of locals dressed in the traditional Andean costumes, beautiful and small cosy buildings from the colonial times with wooden balconies, and a sky so close you think you could touch it with your fingertips. But if there is one thing that stroke me greatly was the sun. When reaching the main square, Plaza de Armas, I could see the rays of the afternoon sun, showing their presence over the mountains, almost burning my eyes and forcing me to look in a different direction. It is as if the sun had left its divine place in the centre of the solar system and had come to visit us in his shelter among the mountains of Peru. So powerful I have no doubts it could leave me blind if I stared for a few minutes straight (with or without sunglasses). This explains the devotion the Inca culture has always shown towards the God of Sun.

But if there is something outstanding about Cusco is the warmth of its people. Having dropped the initial barriers towards unknown individuals speaking to me on the streets, I´m starting to discover the hospitality of these welcoming people. I´ve probably spent more time talking to strangers on the street in a few days than I would have done in any country in Europe. Whether it´s to learn about a project to help street children suffering from drug addiction, to better understand the ancient civilizations of Peru, have some myths about these same civilizations destroyed or just to learn how to shake hands without causing a collision of energy between two souls (?), it doesn´t matter. People here are laid back and always ready to have a chat with foreigners. Every encounter with locals is a new enriching experience that´s helping me, not only to understand their culture, but also to realise how much we miss on our daily lives back home just because we don´t dedicate enough time to speak to people other than our relatives and friends. We simply don´t have time for or interest in others, and I´m just realising how small conversations can be really meaningful for our own lives.

On another occasion, I was approached by one of the kids selling clandestine art at the square (= not paying the local taxes to be allowed to do so, as opposite to the touristic shops around), and praised for my amateur ink drawing of one of the streets off the square. His appraisal of my sketches was followed by a long conversation about the current political and economical situation in the country, the reasons why they are not allowed to sell openly their art to tourists (of course, it would be better if they stole from them! - please note the irony), and a good exchange of cultural traditions between Peru and the different European countries where I have lived in.

Tomorrow morning I am leaving the hotel to head for the legendary city of Machu Picchu: a five day, four night trek crossing some really high peaks around Cusco that will take me as high as 5000 metres above the sea level, through cold and snow areas as well as hot and humid jungle ones. I have some really high expectations for the views and landscapes that will end up in the most mystical and popular place in the whole Peru. I expect it to be tough but I believe I will be well prepared against the altitude sickness, after having spent a few days at an altitude of 3300 metres in the city of Cusco, drank plenty of non-alcoholic fluids and watched carefully my meals. If all the above doesn´t work, there are always some coca leaves in my backpack that seem to do wonders, or so they say.

I am disconnecting now for a few days. Actually, it will be the longest time I´ve ever spent without internet connection or even a simple mobile phone network. Looking forward to it, although the communication with Lana will be greatly missed. I will report upon return with some news and experiences to make you feel "just a bit" envious.

Dennis, if you read this and never hear back from me again, make sure you bring back to Denmark my remains when you come to Peru for your summer holidays.