Spain: Madrid, a stop on the way and an imminent departure

It is always difficult to start a post about a place like Madrid. I wonder whether the difficulty comes from the fact that Madrid can´t be described accurately with words (at least by an amateur writer like me, some others might have widely succeed) or because of the nostalgic feeling of my past time living here (that will undoubtly portrait a biased and idilic image of the city). I will try my best though...

Since I landed on Wednesday, I immediately felt this pleasant feeling of being back in a familiar place that has been greatly missed. It is like seeing again a close relative from whom you´ve been away for too long. I wouldn´t be able to say whether it´s the dry and warm air, the vibrant and crowded streets or the astonishing architecture that protects them from above, forcing you to constantly look up on a jaw dropping gesture.

My first steps in the city led me to Gran Vía, the main artery of the city (for those that drive it would probably be Paseo Castellana or Calle Alcalá though), a street full of history that has changed its face (and name, according to the government in power at the time) in a few occasions since its creation in the beggining of the XX century. It is easy to understand why it´s been called "the Broadway of Madrid", with its cinemas and theatres. Here you can find from time to time red carpets and celebrities promoting their new movies or assist to any of the musicals that are played all year long in any of the theatres. If culture is not your thing, you can always do some shopping in any of the multiple huge stores that populate both sides of the street. However, my main preference has always been contemplating people on this street. Coming from smaller towns and landing on Gran Vía can be a shocking experience for some. And my hometown, Zaragoza, certainly gives a feeling of being a small town when you come to a place like Madrid. This is a place that either makes you dream or makes you sick, depending on your degree of attraction to big and crowded capitals.

Walking around, I quickly realised how much I´ve missed the loud sound of these Spaniards. All it takes is entering a café and you will hear them amongst the clinking of the cutlery and the coffee cups, complaining about the weather, football, politics or whatever comes up. Every small issue creates controversy and leads unmistakably to another overheated debate about what´s right or wrong in their eyes. That´s the beauty of it: Spaniards can never agree on the most basic things in life, let alone on how to bring their economically stuck country forward.

After a long stroll accross the main streets of the city centre, I decided to take a well deserved rest in a terrace. For those of you who haven´t been to Spain before, let me tell you that the only time Spaniards don´t spend their social lives in bars is because they are sitting under the sun in terraces outside. Especially in springtime. Springtime is not a season in Madrid, but a lifestyle: crowded terraces, fashion on the streets, bohemian individuals not to be found in any other Spanish city...this is where nobody belongs and everybody blends in. A mosaic of the past and the present times, well stirred up and ready to be served as an explosive cocktail that blows you out of your senses.

It doesn´t matter how many times I leave this city behind, I always have to come back to it. It is hard to live in it, but it´s not easier to live without it. Just like the Facebook relationship status: "It is complicated". Everything you want is here but you might never be able to find it. Keep searching and, if you still can´t find it, you will at least have enjoyed unforgettable sights while strolling in places like Parque del Buen Retiro, with its majestic lake or the almost hidden statue of the Fallen Angel, Lucifer, being cast out of Heaven to become Satan. The statue was built in 1922 by Ricardo Bellver, inspired by Milton´s Paradise Lost (no, no, not the Gothic Metal band), and is said to be the only known public monument dedicated to the Devil in the world.

Otherwise, you might end up in Plaza de España, where the statue of Don Quijote will salute you in a funny gesture open to multiple political interpretations. It goes without saying, it will be difficult to get a nude picture of the statue, always surrounded by a flock of tourists that probably don´t know much more of this character than the fact that he is the main protagonist of Cervantes´ masterpiece. 

But if there is a place that I adore (the thing about Gran Vía is pure morbid fascination towards big modern cities and history), is Plaza de Oriente, right in front of Palacio Real and just behind the Opera. Here you can find the most magnificent square in Madrid and, no doubt, the most spectacular sunsets while looking over the colourful gardens by the palace. To me this is a place of relaxation, as suitable for the purpose as Parque del Buen Retiro. I have spent countless Sundays under the shade of one of its trees with the company of a good book, while street musicians played for tourists and the Guards of the palace looked with indifference to all passers by.

Madrid is always a place to meet again with old friends over a few beers and some tasty tapas, remembering funny, and sometimes embarrassing, anecdotes of crazy nights of partying in the city. Meeting up with these friends is one of the reasons why the city remains so vivid in my memory. Maybe, to me, they are the ones that keep the city alive with their own lives and stories. I might have been absent for a while, but the city remains as thrilling and full of activity as it was when I left it behind to start wandering accross Europe. For all of you that I have met again in this visit, thanks for being there, always ready for a nice gathering and a few laughs. I´ve been missing you all.

Aside from sightseeing, drinks and relaxation, I´ve taken the opportunity to finalise the last arrangements before my trip to South America. I visited one of the several trekking and extreme sports stores that populate Ribera de Curtidores street (otherwise well known as the place where El Rastro flea market is set on Sundays). There, I was given advice on what would be the best items that I needed for my travels in the American continent and, in particular, for the 5 day climb to Machu Pichu in Peru. After a pleasant shopping experience and feeling confident about my purchases, I left the store with a proper sleeping bag, trekking pants and shirt and an extremely warm and comfortable fleece. Now I can say I´m almost ready to go! The only missing item is the antimalaria pills, Malarone, that I was unable to buy at the pharmacy as a prescription from a doctor is needed. I´m expecting to buy this in Peru, as I will spend several days in high areas where there is no malaria risk prior to taking part in any expedition into the jungle. The antidiarreah pills are already in my bag. Always expect the worst.

Tomorrow night I will be leaving Madrid and the real trip into the unknown will begin. Already missing my girlfriend and friends, I feel excited, nervous and bit scared about what´s waiting for me. I know for sure I am not looking forward to the three flights and several hours in the air (and waiting at airports!) that will take me to Cuzco via Sao Paolo and Lima. I´m well equipped though, with plenty of literature to keep me entertained, a fully loaded iPod (including many songs from Andes to inspire me) and an excellent and comfortable pillow I borrowed from Lana.

If you want to know the rest of the story, just keep an eye on the blog, I will try to update once I´m down in Cuzco and feel a bit settled with things.

Adiós Madrid....y hasta pronto, amigos.